FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

thanks, you already WERE more descriptive!

Well, I had a bitch of a time trying to get the throttle cables back on the carb, until I figured out the easy way. For the sake of mankind, this is the EASY way to do it. The decelerator cable is the one towards the front, the accelerator towards the rear. This is all done with the carb off the eng...

lorenzei,
your post needs more. getting the airbox ON the carb "mouths" is the hard part! they don't just "press on"
I was wondering if you put the front edge first, or the back edge, etc.

the diagram shows the clamps you mentioned. I don't have clamps, so it seemed like either way would work. Since there ARE clamps that attach the boots to the carbs, but not to the airbox, that probably means that I should place the boots on the carbs first.

at the moment, they're attached to the airbox. I'm trying to figure out should they be attached to the carbs, LOOKING FOR THE EASIEST WAY TO ATTACH AIRBOX TO CARBS...

when I try to seat the airbox: 1. should the rubber "seal/mounts/grommets" be on the airbox or the carb? 2 Anyone try KY jelly (water soluble) or vaseline? 3. I know about boiling in antifreeze, but I'm lazy and have no place to do it. 4. The bike is on the street, so I can't get a hair dryer to it....

canuck wrote:I put a new battery in and replaced the regulator. tested the three white wires off the pickup coil and they barely register 12.5 volts.

are you SURE that was AC, not DC?

I'd be the last guy on earth to go against Don, but I would think that 13.5V should be more than enough to charge the battery. I'm thinking more along the lines of a parasitic battery drain. here's a link: http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/charging-articles/testing-your-battery-for-parasitic-l...

seriously, no sarcasm, take a deep breath. You said replaced clutch parts (I have a new clutch cable and i know the clutch plates are brand new!) so, how long have you been riding it since you replaced parts? I'd go back through your work and double check torques on the bolts/nuts you worked on. And...

why did you jump to needing a starter and more? You've only described your stator as being bad...

DVM's are like $5 at harbor freight, if there's one nearby. And yes, a ohm reading of 12.xx with the leads connected to each other is very bad...I was expecting in the 0.x range. You can't zero out a DVM like you can an old analogue one. What I meant was on the ohm scale, touch the two leads togethe...

I did this test from the archives- On the VR there's a plug with 3 white wires in it. Pull that and get your multi-meter out. Set it to Rx10 and check the resistance of the top white wire with the second white wire, then the top wire with the third white wire. You should get a reading of 0.31 to 0....

OK, you need to get VERY specific!

what tests did it fail? what are the values of the tests?

Congrats!
but I'm confused....why don't you have a horn now?

it probably isn't good! was there a spring in the switch when you took it apart? Is it still there? If, after taking apart the switch and electrical cleaner, scrubbie pad, and WD-40-ing everything, it should work OK good luck! P.S. Hmmmmmmmmm...... Without having the wiring in front of me, I wonder ...